Hi all,
I'm ready to start my next kit: the Tamiya Ferrari 312T4 1:12.
I have the Tremonia PE set and I want to use it, but I think I will have to open holes in order to put rivets, may someone help me?
How can I drill PE? 0,4/0,5mm holes? Hand drill will work? Dremel?
Pierluigi
Drilling PE?
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Re: Drilling PE?
Drilling P/E can be extremely Dangerous, the drill bit will almost always snag and the item being drilled becomes a knife spinning and usually causing personal injury. Dremel or drill would the way to go, clamp the item down really well so that it will not move when the bit snags. I would consider using only the Rivet Heads, CA them in place and eliminate drilling , another problem is the P/E will warp or bend when the drill catches. I have had some experience's that didnt come out too well. Maybe one of the Pro's here have a better suggestion I prefer to keep all my fingers and intact!
Re: Drilling PE?
I did that on my Wolf WR1 chassis and it was a pain, used a dremel cause by hand you will only achieve scratches.
Forget about the rivets, too expensive, google solderballs and choose something around 0,6mm. Much cheaper and same optics.
Forget about the rivets, too expensive, google solderballs and choose something around 0,6mm. Much cheaper and same optics.
Take a stand!
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Re: Drilling PE?
Thank you guys!
I think I will try solderballs
I think I will try solderballs
If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough
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Re: Drilling PE?
Got a suggestion, but it is most likely to cost more than you want to spend or you don't have space for it. Sherline makes a sensitive drilling attachment for their mill that I have used to do exactly this. Here I am using it for drilling lug holes in a custom set of rims, but I have drilled out a bunch of PE brake rotors with it. You control the vertical pressure by hand and the mill is variable speed. It also make sure you are, dead on, vertical.
Re: Drilling PE?
I have sherline sensitive drilling attachment for years. Specially for OP’s task, I do not think Sherline mill is the best approach. You will need mill clamp attachment and hold down, meanwhile also need to make sure the holes you are drilling is hollow beneath. Can easily bend the PE inadvertently which will be such a pain to fix if ever could…
To me, OP’s PE drill task is pretty simple, I have done much more difficulty ones (1/12 bike PE without pre-etch spots….). I prefer true metal rivets, as they can represent better “touch” and “shine”. Furthermore, you can strengthen the PE installation with true rivets just like the real thing. The final results are second to none.
Step 1. All I propose is not to cut PE off the spurs and put them on a cut mat (so that once you drill through, there is buffer material to prevent drill bit broke).
Step 2. I recommend CNC drill bits starting from 0.4mm then increasing all the way to the size you desire. Such as you want 0.7 mm, then using 0.4 mm CNC drill bit to begin with, then 0.45mm, 0.5mm, 0.55mm ….all the way to 0.7 mm.
Be sure to increase each step at a 0.05mm, 0.1mm step will be too aggressive.
Step 3. Once you got the size you want. Cut the PE off and sand both side and re dill using the final again then re-sand. You may do this exercise a few times to achieve the smooth edge you want.
Tip 1: do not use too bog size like 0.5, 0.6mm to begin with. Harder to drill through. Also, smaller like 0.3 mm break way too easily.
Tip 2: wear eye goggles……. CNC bit can break ….
Tip 3: find a light drill bit holder. The lighter the better to help you hold it vertically while rotating.
Wish OP success. The PEs are big and have pre-etch spots. So should be relatively easier.
To me, OP’s PE drill task is pretty simple, I have done much more difficulty ones (1/12 bike PE without pre-etch spots….). I prefer true metal rivets, as they can represent better “touch” and “shine”. Furthermore, you can strengthen the PE installation with true rivets just like the real thing. The final results are second to none.
Step 1. All I propose is not to cut PE off the spurs and put them on a cut mat (so that once you drill through, there is buffer material to prevent drill bit broke).
Step 2. I recommend CNC drill bits starting from 0.4mm then increasing all the way to the size you desire. Such as you want 0.7 mm, then using 0.4 mm CNC drill bit to begin with, then 0.45mm, 0.5mm, 0.55mm ….all the way to 0.7 mm.
Be sure to increase each step at a 0.05mm, 0.1mm step will be too aggressive.
Step 3. Once you got the size you want. Cut the PE off and sand both side and re dill using the final again then re-sand. You may do this exercise a few times to achieve the smooth edge you want.
Tip 1: do not use too bog size like 0.5, 0.6mm to begin with. Harder to drill through. Also, smaller like 0.3 mm break way too easily.
Tip 2: wear eye goggles……. CNC bit can break ….
Tip 3: find a light drill bit holder. The lighter the better to help you hold it vertically while rotating.
Wish OP success. The PEs are big and have pre-etch spots. So should be relatively easier.
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Re: Drilling PE?
I understand your issues but I have a simple fix. I have a bar of 1/2" by 4" stock. A couple of drops of CA glue will hold it in place and eliminate tear out because you have solid metal to drill into.(Been doing this for years in woodworking when you don't want to splinter the backside of a board). It is sturdy enough that hand held is quite adequate. If the bit catches it will brake before it spins the PE. When done, a quick hit with some heat and the CA will give up right away, or you can drop it into a bath of acetone. Using this method, I drilled well over 100 holes in brake rotors without incident.danibear wrote: ↑Mon Feb 13, 2023 6:58 pm I have sherline sensitive drilling attachment for years. Specially for OP’s task, I do not think Sherline mill is the best approach. You will need mill clamp attachment and hold down, meanwhile also need to make sure the holes you are drilling is hollow beneath. Can easily bend the PE inadvertently which will be such a pain to fix if ever could…
I agree with you on using punch board drills. If you get good ones, they are far sharper that the cheap "hobby" grade, but because they are carbide, keeping the angle consistent is critical any off center movement will snap the bit for sure.