Renault RE20 1_12 Shelf of Doom WIP

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Paul_OFarrell
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Re: Renault RE20 1_12 Shelf of Doom WIP

Post by Paul_OFarrell »

Hi Phil,

From what I have read about Zero paints, all their colour coats dry with a matt finish. Therefore they need clear coat applied to bring out the shine.

Good choice with the Chrome Yellow. It does look closer to the desired shade than Zero Renault yellow does.

You can apply lacquer clear coats over decals, BUT you have to apply several very light coats at first, otherwise TS13 (for example) will destroy decals. After those coats are done, you can then go with slightly heavier coats.

If lacquer clear coats are not your preference then there is always acrylic clear coat which is water based and completely harmless.

Cheers, Paul
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ModelTime
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Re: Renault RE20 1_12 Shelf of Doom WIP

Post by ModelTime »

@ Paul, thanks great idea, acrylic gloss will not be too shiny like the real car and not hurt the decals, perfect. I will test that out. Thanks for the feedback!
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Re: Renault RE20 1_12 Shelf of Doom WIP

Post by JamesB »

Tamiya is underrated but good. I am getting nice results with the yellow cap tinner and X22...
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Re: Renault RE20 1_12 Shelf of Doom WIP

Post by Archer »

Hello again!
Another thought - you can not do the colour matching based on photos, especially taken outdoors, where the shooting conditions are pretty unknown, and vintage photos are taken at film that has non-linear colour response.Thus we ALWAYS see the affected colours at an "old" photos. Trust me, i'm a professional CG artist ;)
My verdict is simple - I choose ZP, never trusted tamiya paint colours. As for the acrylic clear for the finishing paintjob - no way !
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Re: Renault RE20 1_12 Shelf of Doom WIP

Post by JamesB »

Th ething is that TS47 is NOT the proper Tamiya yellow IMHO. It's good for 1980 ATS for instance. You'd be better with Lemon yellow TS16 maybe?
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ModelTime
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Re: Renault RE20 1_12 Shelf of Doom WIP

Post by ModelTime »

I dunno, I will try a test with TS-16 I think I have a can of that. I'm definitely not going the Zero Renault yellow, its almost has green tinge and too bright. I will test the acrylic or just go with 2K clear, but 2K is too glossy for this era car. Cars back then were just not that shiny unless it was a Lotus or Penske. If I switch, its a lot more work to redo :roll:
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Re: Renault RE20 1_12 Shelf of Doom WIP

Post by ModelTime »

OK, more work in store for me, lol. Thank you JamesB for recommending Tamiya TS-16. I had some handy and it looks spot on. It's right between the Zero (too light IMHO) and TS-47 (too dark).
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Only these pieces need a bath in the paint stripper. No big deal. Too bad, they came out well :cry:
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The monocoque masking is a different story, but I think it will be fine re-doing. It gets covered down here with a lot of stuff.
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Further confirmation of TS-16 comes from Tameo. I bought this 2007 Renault F1 "30 anns" model recently and I should have looked here first. They recommend TS 16 also. That's why you guys are sooo good with feedback and this board is so awesome.
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Sorry to bore you all with paint samples!
"To finish first you must first finish" -Rick Mears
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Re: Renault RE20 1_12 Shelf of Doom WIP

Post by allnie »

TS-16 is the correct color. Problem is TS-16 is not a very good Tamiya spray. It is very hard to make it cover.
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Re: Renault RE20 1_12 Shelf of Doom WIP

Post by ModelTime »

Well, I had to stop the Renault for a few weeks while I built a study model for a client we are designing a school for that is under construction. We tried out our new 3D printer on it. Not too shabby, but it needed paint. 3D printing is NOT easy. It really takes a lot of time. I built the base in paper and foam board faster! However, 3D printing has some promise for odds and ends parts if you can model them in 3D software or download them from the net.
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Enough of my day job......back to the RE20!
I left off changing yellows after some great feedback from this board. I decanted Tamiya White TS-26 and Yellow TS-16 and thinned with laquer thinner a bit so it would go on smoothly. Yes Allnie it takes a lot of yellow to hide, but it got there about 3-4 coats.
Lots of tedious re-masking of the cockpit side panels...uggh this was a pain, but success without harming the aluminum and black.
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With the yellow looking much better than before, I was encouraged to keep going. These body parts take a lot of paint, but I was able to do it all decanting just one can of each color.

Then, it was time to move on to masking the yellow on the main body cowl yellow after white. This requires patience and a plan. Mine was to hole punch some tape dots to get all the tight radii to serve as waypoints for the bigger pieces of tape. I just followed the molded in cheat line.
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Cowl fully masked after TS-26 Gloss White. 2 coats, then let dry a day or two, light sand, then 2-3 more coats, not heavy.
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Here is everything done painting color coats laid out....
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I'm pretty happy I got through the cowl without major mishaps. The tight curves came out the way I wanted and no bleed under after starting with light coats.
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Side pods
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I painted about 4 coats of white on the side panels on different days with light sanding/buffing between.
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After stripping the old darker yellow on the tail, it took all my previous putty with it, had to fill and sand this monster all over again. This one piece took a whole bottle of decanted yellow to get full coverage. Uggh, glad that's over.
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I dropped this piece and smudged the paint after first 2 coats, but sanding and next 2 did the trick.
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I was not satisfied with my prep work on the rear wing, so I stripped those parts and re-chromed them with Tamiya Gloss Black TS-14 decanted then Spaz-stix mirror chrome. I'm much happier now.
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That's it for now after a 3 week hiatus! Cheers!
"To finish first you must first finish" -Rick Mears
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Re: Renault RE20 1_12 Shelf of Doom WIP

Post by ModelTime »

Hello fellow F1 modelers! After a few months of work, some procrastination, taking time to finish some other smaller builds and looking at the next big build of mine, the MFH 956, I've picked up the RE20 again. Here is a small update on the monocoque that I've now committed to glueing together with gap filling super glue, no incidents or finger print smudges, so I'm relieved that went well.

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The throttle cable is run out as is a clutch cable that the instructions are not clear on where to run, so I just ran it up the left side of the seat. I will do some wiring for the dash and turbo gauges and starter when I get to it soon.

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I just test fit the seat and shifter. I drilled out the shifter knob and painted it with Alclad aluminum. Some of the front suspension is taking shape. I painted it Testors gunmetal according to photos, not black. I like that metal finish.
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I used clear casting resin epoxy on the turbo guage. I like that more than clear paint or micro scale white glue for lenses. Very clear like glass.
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Dash detail. Needs wires in back still. I use fun tack and a water bottle cap to hold the pieces to detail them. Makes it easier for me to move it around, hold it and lay it on a flat surface without messing it up.
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Seat detail. I need to secure the belts better so they look more weighty...I applied a dirty oil wash to the aluminum to highlight the panel lines and bolts/recesses up top.
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Front bulkhead detail almost there.....
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This view gives you a good idea how I got the bolt head detail cast into the plastic to show up by removing the satin black acrylic paint to expose the Alclad aluminum underneath.
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I'm going to try and stick with this from here to the finish. I'm looking forward to starting the engine next....cheers!
"To finish first you must first finish" -Rick Mears
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