Time for me to contribute something to the forum for a change. Although I have 3 other builds in mid-stage, all halted due to work and family obligations, here's a new one that I'm going to start and see through to finish on the forum (hopefully!).
Tameo is of course known for their 1/43 work, but they also have a few F1 kits in 1/24. I'm going to tackle the F2002. This is not only my first Tameo kit, but my first in white metal also. Will be challenging but rewarding I hope.
The beast:
The main components:
More to come!
Cheers,
AJ
WIP Tameo 1/24 F2002
WIP Tameo 1/24 F2002
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WIP Tameo 1/24 F2002
Body will need some work...
in multiple areas
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Re: WIP Tameo 1/24 F2002
The main theme of this build so far has been a lot of work with files - to be expected with white metal of course.
A lot of work with the files has produced a better result on the rear bodywork area: More work with files to get the body to sit flat onto the floor, and to orient the lower monocoque tub front area with a good fit:
A lot of work with the files has produced a better result on the rear bodywork area: More work with files to get the body to sit flat onto the floor, and to orient the lower monocoque tub front area with a good fit:
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Indy1977TX
- Minor Constructor
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Re: WIP Tameo 1/24 F2002
Nice prep work. Will be fun to watch this one being built.
Jordan
Jordan
Re: WIP Tameo 1/24 F2002
It was at this point while attempting to fit the main bodywork to the floor that I realized that the main body was warped in two axes. The nose of the car was pointing about 5 degrees off center from the main portion, and the body itself was twisted front to back a bit so that the nose and the tail were not flat to themselves.
So I broke out a large pair of channel-lock pliers with the rubber coated handles, and I used them to twist the body back into shape. Front to back I used the pliers (rubber handle portions) like a lever to twist everything back to square, and then by hand I bent the nose so that it was pointed straight ahead.
I had not expected this to be a problem but I think that in larger scales like this white metal warps as it cools from the casting process. Either way, after a few hours of bending, checking, bending, checking, etc., I got the thing straight and square.
Then time to work more on the floor. Started flattening it and working to thin the edges to scale as they are too thick to start. After some time spent there, this is the first real test fit After thinning more edges of the floor, working through all sides and flattening the plane, this was the point to carefully drill the holes for the screw fasteners and continue working the fit afterward. Get it wrong here and it's hard to fix later. Fingers crossed for good luck...
AJ
So I broke out a large pair of channel-lock pliers with the rubber coated handles, and I used them to twist the body back into shape. Front to back I used the pliers (rubber handle portions) like a lever to twist everything back to square, and then by hand I bent the nose so that it was pointed straight ahead.
I had not expected this to be a problem but I think that in larger scales like this white metal warps as it cools from the casting process. Either way, after a few hours of bending, checking, bending, checking, etc., I got the thing straight and square.
Then time to work more on the floor. Started flattening it and working to thin the edges to scale as they are too thick to start. After some time spent there, this is the first real test fit After thinning more edges of the floor, working through all sides and flattening the plane, this was the point to carefully drill the holes for the screw fasteners and continue working the fit afterward. Get it wrong here and it's hard to fix later. Fingers crossed for good luck...
AJ
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Mr.Grumpy
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Re: WIP Tameo 1/24 F2002
looking good. never seen a WIP of one of their 1/24 kits.
Re: WIP Tameo 1/24 F2002
Never seen one built either.
It looks like you know what you're doing! I don't envy you for all the white metal cleanup on that big kit though
It looks like you know what you're doing! I don't envy you for all the white metal cleanup on that big kit though
Re: WIP Tameo 1/24 F2002
Yes, it's a lot of work. The body had areas of metal flash/slag and some was quite thick near the back of the car, but patience has paid off so far. 90% of the work has been with hand files because the dremel is hard to fit into sharp corner areas and there are a lot of those.
Cheers,
AJ
Cheers,
AJ
Re: WIP Tameo 1/24 F2002
After drilling the holes in the kit for the screw mountings (after measuring and checking about 20 times to be sure I was drilling the holes in the best possible place) I'm happy with the fit of the floor to the main body. It was difficult to get this level of fit but it will serve well later on.
Now some more fun begins. Some parts of the kit in white metal will need to be recast in resin in my opinion, such as the wings which are made in one piece and will need to be separated into different sections (mainplanes and flaps).
Setup and Cast those best I can...
We'll see the results after the molds come off and I cast some resin. If this works I'll try the same thing with some other key parts of the assembly.
AJ
AJ
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Re: WIP Tameo 1/24 F2002
A pretty good result on the wing molds and resin recasts IMO
This will allow me to separate the individual wing elements and paint / install them as per the actual car, rather than in one piece for the mainplanes.
Now to a fairly important decision in the build process. The way the kit is made, the bodywork join line to the floor pan and the front splitter/tea tray would leave a visible seam line in the finished car. I will want to putty and fill that to be smooth, so that the seams are gone and the red / black / CF areas can all be done well and clear coated. That will also have to be done all along the engine cover to floor pan joint and the bottom plank of the car (which is made in 3 pieces).
However, to join everything up permanently and putty / sand / prime / paint will mean that either:
A) everything has to go inside the chassis for the cockpit and engine / gearbox before I can join everything and paint, or
B) I have to figure out a way to join up and putty / sand / paint all the major portions of the car, then build the interior and gearbox areas after the fact and install them in the already-finished chassis.
Plan A above requires me to figure out a way to apply CF decal near the rear of the car and gearbox bay in a way that will make it hard to semi-gloss clear and/or smoke paint it later, and it will also cause issues trying to seal the cockpit from overspray, etc, in addition to the sidepod intakes which will be very visible and must be painted and clear coated well even on the inside of the intake.
This caused me to figure out a plan that may be risky but I'm going to give it a try. I'm going with Plan B above - build and putty / paint everything and then assemble / install the details from the inside afterward. This will be the point where it's determined whether I'm being intelligent or being an idiot, because this will be hard.
To begin, I have to resin cast a copy of the seat which is molded in one piece with the intake floors and tub fuel tank area. You can see that when installed this area would be too big to fit inside the car once it's assembled, as the only opening will be the cockpit itself. But if I resin cast it, I can cut it more easily into pieces (seat, left sidepod, right sidepod) that I can hopefully fit through the cockpit opening. Mixing up some silicone again... Yes, that's a good result also - I can chop this into sections and hopefully get this through the cockpit opening later...
AJ
This will allow me to separate the individual wing elements and paint / install them as per the actual car, rather than in one piece for the mainplanes.Now to a fairly important decision in the build process. The way the kit is made, the bodywork join line to the floor pan and the front splitter/tea tray would leave a visible seam line in the finished car. I will want to putty and fill that to be smooth, so that the seams are gone and the red / black / CF areas can all be done well and clear coated. That will also have to be done all along the engine cover to floor pan joint and the bottom plank of the car (which is made in 3 pieces).
However, to join everything up permanently and putty / sand / prime / paint will mean that either:
A) everything has to go inside the chassis for the cockpit and engine / gearbox before I can join everything and paint, or
B) I have to figure out a way to join up and putty / sand / paint all the major portions of the car, then build the interior and gearbox areas after the fact and install them in the already-finished chassis.
Plan A above requires me to figure out a way to apply CF decal near the rear of the car and gearbox bay in a way that will make it hard to semi-gloss clear and/or smoke paint it later, and it will also cause issues trying to seal the cockpit from overspray, etc, in addition to the sidepod intakes which will be very visible and must be painted and clear coated well even on the inside of the intake.
This caused me to figure out a plan that may be risky but I'm going to give it a try. I'm going with Plan B above - build and putty / paint everything and then assemble / install the details from the inside afterward. This will be the point where it's determined whether I'm being intelligent or being an idiot, because this will be hard.
To begin, I have to resin cast a copy of the seat which is molded in one piece with the intake floors and tub fuel tank area. You can see that when installed this area would be too big to fit inside the car once it's assembled, as the only opening will be the cockpit itself. But if I resin cast it, I can cut it more easily into pieces (seat, left sidepod, right sidepod) that I can hopefully fit through the cockpit opening. Mixing up some silicone again... Yes, that's a good result also - I can chop this into sections and hopefully get this through the cockpit opening later...
AJ
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