WIP: 1/20 1993 Adelaide GP grid
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Re: WIP: 1/20 1993 Adelaide GP grid
Its an amazing project, looks good!
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Re: WIP: 1/20 1993 Adelaide GP grid
Amazing project Jeff, never seen a complete starting grid with all cars in any scale, i`m sure it will be stunning!
Take a stand!
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Re: WIP: 1/20 1993 Adelaide GP grid
Amazing project! Planing on doing a similar thing but just doing 1 car of each team for 1989 and 1993. interesting to follow this!
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Re: WIP: 1/20 1993 Adelaide GP grid
I had wondered recently about this thread, and now suddenly an update!
Looks good.
Looks good.
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Re: WIP: 1/20 1993 Adelaide GP grid
That reel to reel is a gorgeous museum piece.
I have that same 15C kit and screwed it up with a near empty can of TS Camel Yellow. At some point I have to strip and try again. Think i'll decant the next can of Camel I get, came out WAY to thick with orange swirls.....damnit.
I have that same 15C kit and screwed it up with a near empty can of TS Camel Yellow. At some point I have to strip and try again. Think i'll decant the next can of Camel I get, came out WAY to thick with orange swirls.....damnit.
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Re: WIP: 1/20 1993 Adelaide GP grid
FERRARI F93A (Studio27)
I wanted to paint the white areas rather than use the kit decals (they are translucent and under-sized) but I couldn’t get it right with masking tape, especially the curved area ahead of the windscreen. Then my wife spotted something on sale - Silhouette Cameo 4 desktop cutting machine; now I could make my own paint masks.
The process - Scan the decalsheet; trace the outline of the white decal panels in CorelDraw; import the file into the Silhouette Studio software, then let the machine cut out the mask.
The masking material (Oramask 810) is a transparent, self-adhesive vinyl which is tacky enough to stick well to the model, but can also easily be pulled off without damaging the paint. It can also stretch a little bit, and is really nice to work with.
Checking if the decals will fit properly inside the white areas. The “decals” are photocopies from the decalsheet.
I masked off the top to protect against overspray getting into the cockpit. But – next time I must also remember to close off the bottom! (see photos further below). Tamiya TS-8 Italian Red from the can.
I’m very happy with the result. The red will need a little polishing to smooth out some orange peel.
Red paint did get into the cockpit through the bottom which I forgot to mask off, but fortunately it was just light spray which could be polished out. Most of the cockpit wall will be covered by c/f decal anyway.
p/e seatbelts - cut the end of the seatbelt ribbon diagonally, and dab the end with a bit of superglue; this will stop the fabric from fraying. Once the glue dries hard, squash the end of the ribbon with tweezers to make it thinner. The ribbon can now be threaded through the p/e belt parts with relative ease. First the shoulder-strap.
Then the belt buckle. On the back of the fabric, put a small strip of double-sided sticky tape.
Then fold the end of the ribbon onto the double-sided tape in order to lock in the buckle. Check the length, and adjust the shoulder-strap and decal up or down as needed.
After soaking the decal in water, remove the backing paper, and put the decal on double-sided tape. Then cut it out and stick it onto the belt ribbon.
On the back, put some sticky tape, then put some blue-tack over it, and stick the belt onto the seat. The sticky tape prevents the blue-tack from possibly leaving some oily mark on the belt fabric in the long term. The whole process took just under 10 minutes.
Completed belt set, took about 40 minutes at leisure, no stress.
The white panel decals on the S27 kit were too short, so I couldn’t use the black pin-stripe that separates the red and white paint. I printed new pin-stripes on my ALPS, as well as some test-decals for the Minardi M193.
Still a bit left to do, but it’s starting to take shape. Hopefully I don’t mess up the clearcoating job.
SAUBER C12
I got held up a bit when I polished the body and rubbed through to the primer, so had to touch it up and fix it. All OK now, most of the decals are on.
A nice touch is that AMC included this "where one great race meets another" decal - it was issued by the Adelaide GP race organisers in recognition of Australia's indigenous people. Sauber placed the decal on the side of the monocoque; the only other team to carry them was Jordan.
Some more updates soon
I wanted to paint the white areas rather than use the kit decals (they are translucent and under-sized) but I couldn’t get it right with masking tape, especially the curved area ahead of the windscreen. Then my wife spotted something on sale - Silhouette Cameo 4 desktop cutting machine; now I could make my own paint masks.
The process - Scan the decalsheet; trace the outline of the white decal panels in CorelDraw; import the file into the Silhouette Studio software, then let the machine cut out the mask.
The masking material (Oramask 810) is a transparent, self-adhesive vinyl which is tacky enough to stick well to the model, but can also easily be pulled off without damaging the paint. It can also stretch a little bit, and is really nice to work with.
Checking if the decals will fit properly inside the white areas. The “decals” are photocopies from the decalsheet.
I masked off the top to protect against overspray getting into the cockpit. But – next time I must also remember to close off the bottom! (see photos further below). Tamiya TS-8 Italian Red from the can.
I’m very happy with the result. The red will need a little polishing to smooth out some orange peel.
Red paint did get into the cockpit through the bottom which I forgot to mask off, but fortunately it was just light spray which could be polished out. Most of the cockpit wall will be covered by c/f decal anyway.
p/e seatbelts - cut the end of the seatbelt ribbon diagonally, and dab the end with a bit of superglue; this will stop the fabric from fraying. Once the glue dries hard, squash the end of the ribbon with tweezers to make it thinner. The ribbon can now be threaded through the p/e belt parts with relative ease. First the shoulder-strap.
Then the belt buckle. On the back of the fabric, put a small strip of double-sided sticky tape.
Then fold the end of the ribbon onto the double-sided tape in order to lock in the buckle. Check the length, and adjust the shoulder-strap and decal up or down as needed.
After soaking the decal in water, remove the backing paper, and put the decal on double-sided tape. Then cut it out and stick it onto the belt ribbon.
On the back, put some sticky tape, then put some blue-tack over it, and stick the belt onto the seat. The sticky tape prevents the blue-tack from possibly leaving some oily mark on the belt fabric in the long term. The whole process took just under 10 minutes.
Completed belt set, took about 40 minutes at leisure, no stress.
The white panel decals on the S27 kit were too short, so I couldn’t use the black pin-stripe that separates the red and white paint. I printed new pin-stripes on my ALPS, as well as some test-decals for the Minardi M193.
Still a bit left to do, but it’s starting to take shape. Hopefully I don’t mess up the clearcoating job.
SAUBER C12
I got held up a bit when I polished the body and rubbed through to the primer, so had to touch it up and fix it. All OK now, most of the decals are on.
A nice touch is that AMC included this "where one great race meets another" decal - it was issued by the Adelaide GP race organisers in recognition of Australia's indigenous people. Sauber placed the decal on the side of the monocoque; the only other team to carry them was Jordan.
Some more updates soon
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Re: WIP: 1/20 1993 Adelaide GP grid
Amazing Job !
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Re: WIP: 1/20 1993 Adelaide GP grid
A great update, thanks for posting it!
M.
M.
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Re: WIP: 1/20 1993 Adelaide GP grid
Great work Jeff!!
Nothing beats painted livery
Nothing beats painted livery
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Re: WIP: 1/20 1993 Adelaide GP grid
Beautiful work and proving the concept of the cameo. Been discussing the use of this tool with one of my friends and I fancy using one to create masks for larger sponsor logos. Do you think that is viable, having used one.
Thanks.
Thanks.