Tameo Arrows A2 (updated)
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Topic author - F1 Test Driver
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Tameo Arrows A2 (updated)
Hi everyone, time for me to join the party.
My contribution to this GB will be in 1/43.
SLK 072 is one of the fairly recent Tameo offerings, lovely kit, not too many parts but everything is there to do a good build.
I've started a few days ago, usual test fittings, thinning down edges and surface preparation.
The one thing that cannot easily be thinned are the brake scoops. White metal is nice, but if you thin it down to much, it doesn't have enough integrity to stay straight. My solution to that issue is to recast the metal originals in resin. Mold was done last friday and I should have time tomorrow to pour some resin in it.
Body parts are also ready for priming, Tamiya metal primer followed by regular gray primer. I will start looking in my drawers for the proper shade of gold. I've seen some builds done with a very bright gold paint and it did not look to realistic. Next post will probably show some paint tests.
Cheers
My contribution to this GB will be in 1/43.
SLK 072 is one of the fairly recent Tameo offerings, lovely kit, not too many parts but everything is there to do a good build.
I've started a few days ago, usual test fittings, thinning down edges and surface preparation.
The one thing that cannot easily be thinned are the brake scoops. White metal is nice, but if you thin it down to much, it doesn't have enough integrity to stay straight. My solution to that issue is to recast the metal originals in resin. Mold was done last friday and I should have time tomorrow to pour some resin in it.
Body parts are also ready for priming, Tamiya metal primer followed by regular gray primer. I will start looking in my drawers for the proper shade of gold. I've seen some builds done with a very bright gold paint and it did not look to realistic. Next post will probably show some paint tests.
Cheers
Last edited by accuracing on Mon Jan 06, 2014 9:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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- Midfield
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Re: Tameo Arrows A2
Great looking start. Interesting solution to opening up the brake ducts. I will be interested to see the result of the resin casting.
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Topic author - F1 Test Driver
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Re: Tameo Arrows A2
I have done the scoop recast technique a few times already.
Here you can see a set for the 126 c (TMK394).
Considering that the opening is 3mm tall by 1,8mm wide, I think it is much better that the original.
Here you can see a set for the 126 c (TMK394).
Considering that the opening is 3mm tall by 1,8mm wide, I think it is much better that the original.
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- F2 Champion
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Re: Tameo Arrows A2
An excellent choice I must say, I know this car very well having been involved in its restoration a few years ago. I have lots of reference material should you require it.
I'm just about to start my contribution to the group build, will post shortly on here, but suffice to say its your subjects older much uglier sister More to follow........
The Tameo/Silverline casting looks superb, your prep work is excellent, I can't wait to see more.
As a keen builder at 1:43 scale would you be able to elaborate more on the brake duct building technique, its something I always spend hours on with micro drills and files, but the edges you show look so much sharper than I ever achieve.
Cheers, Mark
I'm just about to start my contribution to the group build, will post shortly on here, but suffice to say its your subjects older much uglier sister More to follow........
The Tameo/Silverline casting looks superb, your prep work is excellent, I can't wait to see more.
As a keen builder at 1:43 scale would you be able to elaborate more on the brake duct building technique, its something I always spend hours on with micro drills and files, but the edges you show look so much sharper than I ever achieve.
Cheers, Mark
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- FOTA Chairman
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Re: Tameo Arrows A2
Cool project. I also have some pictures, of chassis A2-2, which is in the Nurburgring museum and is very original. PM if interested...
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- Backmarker
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Re: Tameo Arrows A2
I thought of bying this one too, but bought the FW07 D six wheeler instead. I really like the Arrows A2 and you made a great start with it. I 'll follow this one!
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Topic author - F1 Test Driver
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Re: Tameo Arrows A2
As requested by Mark, here is more info on the brake duct technique.
I started doing them in resin to replicate the clear fiberglass of the Ferrari's of the late 70's.
The resin castings were a lot easier to trim and refine than the metal parts. So it became an habit for 1/43.
As long as the resin that is used is not too soft, it will be a lot easier to obtain the scale looking parts that you want.
My casting technique as evolve over time, let say that now, I have access to a vaccuum pump to degass my silicone and a pressure pot to pressurize my casting. With some luck or a lot of try and error you may get bubble free castings.That is the most common problem with home made parts.
Hope that all this will help
Cheers
I started doing them in resin to replicate the clear fiberglass of the Ferrari's of the late 70's.
The resin castings were a lot easier to trim and refine than the metal parts. So it became an habit for 1/43.
As long as the resin that is used is not too soft, it will be a lot easier to obtain the scale looking parts that you want.
My casting technique as evolve over time, let say that now, I have access to a vaccuum pump to degass my silicone and a pressure pot to pressurize my casting. With some luck or a lot of try and error you may get bubble free castings.That is the most common problem with home made parts.
Hope that all this will help
Cheers
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- F2 Champion
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Re: Tameo Arrows A2
So if I'm understanding this correctly you just recast the same part in a different material which is then easier to fettle/trim/refine than the white metal? If so, I'm still struggling to see how you got such perfect internal openings on the brake ducts on the picture below?accuracing wrote:As requested by Mark, here is more info on the brake duct technique.
I started doing them in resin to replicate the clear fiberglass of the Ferrari's of the late 70's.
The resin castings were a lot easier to trim and refine than the metal parts. So it became an habit for 1/43.
As long as the resin that is used is not too soft, it will be a lot easier to obtain the scale looking parts that you want.
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Topic author - F1 Test Driver
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Re: Tameo Arrows A2
Hi
Since the resin is less resiliant to the cutting tools, it makes it easier to sharpen the edges. I usually start by drilling a hole in the center,followed by a small chisel. Finishing touch is usually done with a fresh X acto blade.
I will try to post a WIP within the WIP. My first casting should be out of the mold later today so I should have a set to carve this evening.
The thing is, having a mold done allows you to try again if necessary.
More later
Cheers
Since the resin is less resiliant to the cutting tools, it makes it easier to sharpen the edges. I usually start by drilling a hole in the center,followed by a small chisel. Finishing touch is usually done with a fresh X acto blade.
I will try to post a WIP within the WIP. My first casting should be out of the mold later today so I should have a set to carve this evening.
The thing is, having a mold done allows you to try again if necessary.
More later
Cheers
-
Topic author - F1 Test Driver
- Posts: 251
- Joined: Sun Jan 20, 2008 4:52 pm
- Favorite F1 Team or Driver: Villeneuve
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Re: Tameo Arrows A2
As promised, the scoop WIP within the A2 WIP
First the tools, there's a Mission Chisel next to my homemade one made from a piece of piano wire and a dowel. you can also see the raw castings, one is still inside the mold. I usually start by drilling a hole. Followed by some carving with the chisel to remove more material. The front scoop is very narrow (0.9mm), I slowly start to carve a "V" groove with the chisel, trying to keep it centered. The rest of the carving is done with the standard X acto blade, carefully slicing away material. For the narrow groove, I pull the back side of the blade, carefully scraping away the resin. You can see thru the part how deep I carved the castings This is what it looks like after 1/2 hour of work. The true test is always paint, A quick coat of Tamiya XF85 airbrushed on. You can see the before and after. Overall, it is not too complicated, it's just tough on the eyeballs. Ideally you should work during day time near a window. Nothing like natural light to see what you are doing.
Guess I will start the other pair.
Cheers
First the tools, there's a Mission Chisel next to my homemade one made from a piece of piano wire and a dowel. you can also see the raw castings, one is still inside the mold. I usually start by drilling a hole. Followed by some carving with the chisel to remove more material. The front scoop is very narrow (0.9mm), I slowly start to carve a "V" groove with the chisel, trying to keep it centered. The rest of the carving is done with the standard X acto blade, carefully slicing away material. For the narrow groove, I pull the back side of the blade, carefully scraping away the resin. You can see thru the part how deep I carved the castings This is what it looks like after 1/2 hour of work. The true test is always paint, A quick coat of Tamiya XF85 airbrushed on. You can see the before and after. Overall, it is not too complicated, it's just tough on the eyeballs. Ideally you should work during day time near a window. Nothing like natural light to see what you are doing.
Guess I will start the other pair.
Cheers