Best Eagle Weslake Blue Color

[CelicaGT]

Hi guys,

So I'm trying to find the best color for the 1967 Eagle Weslake. I know Zero Paints is well respected and makes an "Eagle T1G" paint color, but to my eyes the metal flakes in that paint are too big for 1/20 scale. I've also seen Gravity Colors of Spain's "Eagle Weslake Blue" and the flakes seem smaller but maybe still too prominent for my taste?

Here's some photos of the real car. I don't see any metal flakes visible from far away. It's definitely a deep blue though.






Up close maybe it has small metal flakes?


Or maybe not? Or the metal flakes are very small? Either way, in 1/20 I think they'd be hard to see.


Also, did they really have metallic paints in 1967?

Anyways, I'm looking for a deep blue that is close to the Eagle blue but without any metal flakes since I think it would look more period correct without them on a 1960s F1 car (personal choice, and zero disrespect to other modellers who've built the Eagle using the ZP or GC paint, I think they look amazing, just not what I'd like).

I've looked through all the Tamiya TS paints (TS are the only rattle cans I'll touch) and none of their many blues seem to match the Eagle's blue. Any other ideas? Thanks guys!

[CK]

One solution is to get some Zero paint and match it without the flakes.

[Daryl_Huhtala]

The MCW Gurney blue is very good. The metal flakes are very small and their paint is very good and easy to use.

[MarcoSaupe]

One solution is to get some Zero paint and match it without the flakes.

If you match the colour, you can then add some Alclad Chrome in the Mix, which adds some tiny flakes.

[CelicaGT]

One solution is to get some Zero paint and match it without the flakes.

Sorry for the dumb question (I have never used an airbrush or ZPs before ) but how do you match ZPs?

The MCW Gurney blue is very good. The metal flakes are very small and their paint is very good and easy to use.

Ok, I will check that out, thanks.

One solution is to get some Zero paint and match it without the flakes.

If you match the colour, you can then add some Alclad Chrome in the Mix, which adds some tiny flakes.

Thanks.

[CK]

It does not matter if the paint is for airbrush or not. You still can hand brush it on a white cardboard or plastic sheet. The result may not be smooth and may have brush marks. For color comparison, it is fine. I believe a clear coat has to be added on top of Zero paints. The clear coat will make the color look darker.

[indycals]

Tamiya TS55.

[CelicaGT]

Ok guys, lots of good suggestions here. I'll give some of these a try and get back to you on what works the best.

It does not matter if the paint is for airbrush or not. You still can hand brush it on a white cardboard or plastic sheet. The result may not be smooth and may have brush marks. For color comparison, it is fine. I believe a clear coat has to be added on top of Zero paints. The clear coat will make the color look darker.

Ok, so just basically get the paint, apply it somehow and then take it to a paint store and have them match it (minus the metal flakes)?

[CK]

Yes!

You can also try to match it yourself by mixing different colors. When doing color matching, make sure you do it under sunlight. Otherwise, it may look correct under one type of lights and looks completely off in another type of light. Also, make sure the that wait till the paint dries. Dried paint is a little bit darker than wet paint.

[CelicaGT]

Yes!

You can also try to match it yourself by mixing different colors. When doing color matching, make sure you do it under sunlight. Otherwise, it may look correct under one type of lights and looks completely off in another type of light. Also, make sure the that wait till the paint dries. Dried paint is a little bit darker than wet paint.

Ok, great tips, thanks!