Tamiya TS sprays - Fragile?

[Icon_Modeler]

1200 between the primer and top coat is too fine in my opinion. I would use 400-600 wet.

I would give the paint at least 3-4 days between maskings otherwise you might end up with tape marks in the first color.

[Sennafan]

What happens with the tape is the following

When you tape over the primary color and paint the 2nd color, especially good wet coats, the Tamiya paint, TS, will react with the tape and affect the primary coat and it is not fixable, I have used goo gone and it actually removes the paint

The solution I have found is to remove the tape immediately after painting, and this has given me amazing results, just difficult with tough paint jobs like a 1/12 XJR 12 in purples for instance

As for chipping, only over white metal or resin when the primer comes off

[steveracer]

Sennafan. Good tip. I have used that once in a while. Gonna try that next week on my Leyton house.

[PeteJ]

Pete. How about tape over the paint? How long do you wait to do a secondary color and have you had any distortion on the paint under the tape? I had that on one of my models.

I generally leave it in my food dehydrator overnight and never had any issues with any taping. Just FYI, I use Fineline automotive masking tape(available and any automotive paint store) and Tamiya regular tape and there relatively new vinyl tape. I have even left the tape on for months without any adverse issues.

[Paul_OFarrell]

Hi steveracer,

Sorry to read about your issues. A couple of thoughts:

Are you using Tamiya primer and Tamiya paint? Sometimes there are compatibility issues when applying one manufacturers brand of paint over a different manufacturers primer. Keep the brands the same if possible. While Tamiya's primer is pretty generic and will accept having acrylics lacquers and even enamel paint (sometimes) applied over it, check that the paint colour is also from Tamiya and ensure the colour paint types are compatible - applying lacquer paint over a different type of paint ( acrylic, enamel etc ) won't end well.

Speaking of Tamiya paint, make sure the colour paints you're using is not from their PS range. PS paint is made for spraying inside radio control car bodies and is not compatible with their TS range of paint.

Which type of tape are you masking with? Regular household masking tape has high adhesion and may cause paint and / or primer to be torn away when the tape is removed. Try using Tamiya tape and remove some of the tackiness by sticking the piece of tape to be used on the back of your hand to remove some of the tape adhesive.

Was the surface lightly scuffed with 600 grit sandpaper before the primer was applied? After scuffing the surface did you thoroughly wash the surfaces with warm dishwater, rinse clean with running water and allow enough time for the surface to be completely dry? Any remaining mold release agent or sanding dust may have caused the surface to be contaminated and paint will not adhere as well as it should.

Are you decanting the paint or primer into an airbrush? It may be that the paint was not thoroughly mixed enough before spraying, which can lessen its ability to stick firmly.

Was the surface touched with bare fingers at any time? Sometimes the oil in your skin can contaminate the surface and cause adhesion issues.

Another matter to consider is relative humidity. Too much moisture in the air may be a factor. I'm not sure if heating the room will be enough to remove any latent humidity. Perhaps consider limiting painting activities until the warmer months?

Was the room dusty at all? Any airborne dust particles could have landed on the surface, possibly compromising the paint adhesion.

I might also suggest testing spraying techniques beforehand. Depending on how close the nozzle is to the surface, and also how quickly the nozzle moves past the surface, perhaps these matters may also have caused some effect.

Practise makes perfect Steve. Keep trying and let us know how you get on.

Cheers, Paul
Sydney, Oz

[indycals]

Some people find the X paints too soft. I like it soft so polishing is easier. This Porsche is first wet sanded with 1500 and then polished using Tamiya polishing compound (fine) + polishing compound (finish). The paint has to be thick enough for all these procedures, otherwise it can be polished through. Again, I don't use primer. It is X-6 strict on plastic. There is no clear coat on top.

Tamiya has instructions for thinning their x paint - use acrylic thinner for the softer (also glossier) effect you like. Use lacquer thinner to make it harder (but less glossy). In effect you can make it into a lacquer paint using their lacquer thinner.

[steveracer]

Tamiya has instructions for thinning their x paint - use acrylic thinner for the softer (also glossier) effect you like. Use lacquer thinner to make it harder (but less glossy). In effect you can make it into a lacquer paint using their lacquer thinner.

So I painted with the TS spray. And if I want to paint the nose and airbox green with X paint, that I may want to clear over with TS, I should use lacquer thinner on the X?

Will that be safe to do? Use X over the TS? If so, I will use my Tamiya tape on the main body and give it a try. I don't really like to clear gloss on race cars as it looks too weird.

[steveracer]

Hi steveracer,

Sorry to read about your issues. A couple of thoughts:

Are you using Tamiya primer and Tamiya paint?

Speaking of Tamiya paint, make sure the colour paints you're using is not from their PS range.

Which type of tape are you masking with?

Was the surface lightly scuffed with 600 grit sandpaper before the primer was applied?

After scuffing the surface did you thoroughly wash the surfaces with warm dishwater, rinse clean with running water and allow enough time for the surface to be completely dry?

Are you decanting the paint or primer into an airbrush? It may be that the paint was not thoroughly mixed enough before spraying, which can lessen its ability to stick firmly.

Was the surface touched with bare fingers at any time? Sometimes the oil in your skin can contaminate the surface and cause adhesion issues.

Another matter to consider is relative humidity. Too much moisture in the air may be a factor. I'm not sure if heating the room will be enough to remove any latent humidity. Perhaps consider limiting painting activities until the warmer months?

Was the room dusty at all? Any airborne dust particles could have landed on the surface, possibly compromising the paint adhesion.

Practise makes perfect Steve. Keep trying and let us know how you get on.

Cheers, Paul
Sydney, Oz

Yes Tamiya primer and paint
No way did I buy the PS
Tamiya tape touched the surface....I also use frog tape on other brands of paint.
Yes I etched the primer with light paper or scothpad.
No decanting
I did not touch the area affected by the tape..I cleared over and that helped hide some of the paint attacked.
My humidity was relatively low - it is winter here now, but in the house, it was pretty low.
Dust...oh that's my enemy....but with the new paint room the walls will be painted and floors clean...it should be pretty good.

I have my new paint operation and plan to practice on spoons a lot of things now that I can relax out there and focus on paint, where before I had to sneak it in while my wife was asleep. Had to turn the furnace off so it wouldn't blow fumes up into the house. Now it is MY space....he he he.

[indycals]

Tamiya has instructions for thinning their x paint - use acrylic thinner for the softer (also glossier) effect you like. Use lacquer thinner to make it harder (but less glossy). In effect you can make it into a lacquer paint using their lacquer thinner.

So I painted with the TS spray. And if I want to paint the nose and airbox green with X paint, that I may want to clear over with TS, I should use lacquer thinner on the X?

Will that be safe to do? Use X over the TS? If so, I will use my Tamiya tape on the main body and give it a try. I don't really like to clear gloss on race cars as it looks too weird.

IMG_9502.jpg

In theory yes. But I'd test it to be safe. I'm pretty sure I've mixed and match as you describe with no issues, but I can't say with 100% certainty. Also, Semi gloss is a great clear coat if you want the protection without the gloss.

[Paul_OFarrell]

Tamiya has instructions for thinning their x paint - use acrylic thinner for the softer (also glossier) effect you like. Use lacquer thinner to make it harder (but less glossy). In effect you can make it into a lacquer paint using their lacquer thinner.

So I painted with the TS spray. And if I want to paint the nose and airbox green with X paint, that I may want to clear over with TS, I should use lacquer thinner on the X?

Will that be safe to do? Use X over the TS? If so, I will use my Tamiya tape on the main body and give it a try. I don't really like to clear gloss on race cars as it looks too weird.

IMG_9502.jpg

In theory yes. But I'd test it to be safe. I'm pretty sure I've mixed and match as you describe with no issues, but I can't say with 100% certainty. Also, Semi gloss is a great clear coat if you want the protection without the gloss.

Acrylics can be applied over lacquers, but I'm not so certain about lacquer over acrylic. It might be ok, but do some test spraying first. Apply the lacquer paint in several VERY light fogged on coats, because lacquer paint is chemically "hot" and will etch into the underlying coats. The good thing about lacquer coats is that they dry reasonably quickly in the right environment, so there is no harm in letting the lacquer paint dry for a longer period of time. Letting it dry longer will also allow enough time for any anticipated reaction to complete.

Application of several very light coats with an extended period of time between each coat should lessen the chance of lacquer paint causing damage.

Cheers, Paul
Sydney, Oz