So, I completed my latest project. It's red and fast, but not a Ferrari, rather a Ducati Desmosedici MotoGP bike from 2004. Kit is 1/12 from Tamiya, I assume most know (of) it.
This was the first motorcycle I’ve ever built, and the first motorcycle kit I purchased way back in the day. My normal method when doing something for the first time is to do it OOB, or at least keeping the details to a minimum. However, I had been gathering detail sets/parts since I bought the kit, and it is a Ducati, so I gave it the full detail treatment. A list of all the revisions/additions/updates is down below.
I used the Top Studio chain set, which involves building it up link-by-link into sections, then joining the sections, threading it through the swing arm, and completing the loop in place. It’s, well, really quite challenging; not the least of which reasons is getting those tiny p.e. links in the proper place and keeping them there when flattening the ends of the cross pieces to lock it in place. The first section I built is a little rough, and I honestly almost gave up after that, but I got better at it, and made some additional jigs to hold onto things, and the later sections are much better. Unfortunately, the chain length between the sprockets fell squarely in the middle of one link, so it was destined to be either a little too tight, or loose. I opted for a little loose, rather than risk breaking something when trying to squeeze it together. I may have lost it.
The other issue is there is a little gap between the side and belly bodywork pieces when assembled. I replaced the bodywork mounting screws with magnets for easier removal and viewing, and not sure how much that contributed to it. It’s not terrible, just wish it was better.
To that end, I decided to replace all the kit molded “fasteners” with machined metal parts, a lot of RB Motion hex-head and Top Studio flange bolts. Also, the screws used for the main assemblies marriage (e.g., engine to frame, fuel tank and seat to frame, rear sub-frame/wheel assy., etc.) are not representative of the real thing, so I replaced them with RB Motion hex-head parts. Major shout out to Rob (aka RB Motion) for helping me with some special parts with longer stems in order to make it happen.
Added Details/Revisions/Upgrades:
Chassis:
- Replace fasteners (kit molded --> machined metal) [RB Motion, Top Studio]
- Replace assembly fasteners for better representation (kit screws --> machined aluminum) [RB Motion; special long-stem parts]
- CF decals on appropriate parts/areas [F’artefice, MFH]
- Replace wheel nuts (kit molded --> machined metal) [Top Studio]
- Apply p.e. brake disc surfaces [Acu Stion]
- Apply p.e. heat exchanger surfaces [Acu Stion]
- Replace throttle cable tensioners (kit molded --> machined metal) [Top Studio]
- Replace brake/clutch lever adjusters (kit molded --> machined metal) [T2M]
- Replace throttle cables for better scale representation [Kit parts --> MFH]
- Replace steering damper rod for better scale representation (kit parts --> scratch-built)
- Replace dashboard switches/buttons (kit molded --> machined metal) [Top Studio]
- Replace shift actuator rod (kit molded --> machined metal) [Top Studio]
- Replace tire valves (kit molded --> machined metal) [Top Studio]
- Replace front fork assembly (kit molded --> machined metal & plastic parts) [Tamiya]
- Replace rear shock spring and reservoir (kit molded --> machined metal) [Tamiya]
- Chain tension adjusters; open up and add adjustment screw [RB Motion]
- Replace brake/clutch banjo fittings (kit molded --> machined metal) [Top Studio]
- Replace brake/clutch bleeders (kit molded --> machined metal) [Top Studio]
- Replace brake lines for better scale representation [Kit parts --> MFH]
- Replace connectors on electronics box (kit molded --> resin detail parts) [Hobby Design]
- Add engine and chassis wiring and connectors [MFH, Top Studio]
- Replace brake/clutch fluid reservoirs and mounting bracket (kit molded --> scratch-built), and add related plumbing [MFH]
- Replace rear brake booster (kit molded --> scratch-built)
- Replace foot pegs (kit molded --> scratch-built)
- Simulate fluid content in overflow bottle. (painted)
- Add connection and plumbing for overflow bottle [MFH]
- Heat-shrink tubing on cooling lines
- Scuff tires
- Simulate seat surface texture [SMS]
Powertrain:
- Replace fasteners (kit molded --> machined metal) [RB Motion, Top Studio]
- Replace chain and sprockets (kit molded --> p.e. & machined metal) [Top Studio]
- Replace fittings and plumbing (kit molded --> machined metal, tubing/wiring) [Top Studio, RB Motion, Hobby Design]
- Replace/add clutch bleeder (kit molded --> machined metal) [Top Studio]
- Separate combo-molded exhaust pipes and remove assembly gaps.
- Apply exhaust heat-staining
- Add engine plug connectors [scratch-built w/ Top Studio connector]
Body:
- Replace fasteners (kit molded --> machined metal) [RB Motion; inc. special long-stem parts]
- Replace body attachment fasteners (screws --> magnets)
- CF decals on appropriate parts/areas (inc. repl. kit decals) and inside surfaces [F’artefice, Renaissance, S27]
- Add p.e. mesh to vent openings where appropriate.
- Heat shielding on bodywork inside [MFH]
- Paint white stripes on front fender (replace decals)
General:
- Aftermarket mounting stand (p.e., plastic parts) [Tamiya]
- Assembly stands and jigs [scratch-built]
McLaren 720S
Porsche 911 GT3R (convert to Flying Lizard)
Pagani Zonda or Huayra
Toyota Estima GT1 (w/ V8TT engine from the TS020, an ode to the Renault Espace F1)
McLaren Honda MP4/7
Williams FW14B or FW16
Ferrari 312T or T2
Anyhow, onward and upward as always.
Cheers,
Chris
