Paintwork that went wrong

[TvD]

I have a couple of friends who know their painting stuff (in modelling and professionally) and have used Zero Paints. They told me the problem with ZP is that there is a LOT of thinner in it. Too much for any automotive usage. When spray-painting a 1:1 car there simply isn't time for building up multiple layers to get the desired color, the first layer should be enough. More layers mean more drying time, mean more time lost, mean no money earned, just because the paint booth is in "use".

If you're looking for an alternative, you might want to check out DS-colors (http://dscolors.com/). I tested them and was very impressed. For example I painted an F1 Mclaren in the iconic M@rlb0ro colors using ZP; every layer I added made the red "darker" whereas the DS colors didn't change after 2 coats (and the 2nd was mostly to cover the parts I missed). They are a bit more expensive, but because of the good coverage you get more area covered on your models. For example, when using ZP's semi-gloss black I would fill up the airbrush to the rim and put thin layer after thin layer until it was black. With the DS-colors I put in as little as possible not to waste it as the first pass is usually enough.

Anyway, I have quite a few bottles of ZP but won't be buying any more in the future.

Just my 2c.

[bossy122]

A long time ago, I tried some Zero Mac red and it was SO watery that it just would not go on without dripping.....it was bad. I let the bottle sit for some time then drained about half the bottle of the thinner. However, I never got around to using it to see if it improved anything. Has anyone else tried draining some of the thinner? By now, my bottle has probably passed it's use by date.

[SteveNoble]

Always used Tamiya aerosol primer and never had any problem with Zero paints. Lighter coats to get coverage only until you have the correct shade. They are basecoat paint and need a clear over the top to get the gloss. All the colour does is just that, give the colour. Don't attempt wet coats with the colour or you will craze the plastic. They work well as long as you use them correctly.

[43rdMichael]

A long time ago, I tried some Zero Mac red and it was SO watery that it just would not go on without dripping.....it was bad. I let the bottle sit for some time then drained about half the bottle of the thinner. However, I never got around to using it to see if it improved anything. Has anyone else tried draining some of the thinner? By now, my bottle has probably passed it's use by date.

Yes, the mcl red is very low solids. Slow to lay down the colour, but the end result is nice.

[stubeck]

A long time ago, I tried some Zero Mac red and it was SO watery that it just would not go on without dripping.....it was bad. I let the bottle sit for some time then drained about half the bottle of the thinner. However, I never got around to using it to see if it improved anything. Has anyone else tried draining some of the thinner? By now, my bottle has probably passed it's use by date.

I've used "old" zero paints with no issue, and new paints that immediately attacked the plastic. I've also had issues my last two shipments from Gravity where they don't properly tighten the caps.

I have simply started using plastic spoons and extra sprue as testing mechanisms with kits. I always have extra paint to use, so I'll go through the same process on these test parts to make sure if there are issues, its on a disposable part.

[woodgp]

same paint as same primer ....stay with one product ...they all work great when you don't mix companys products ... cheers

[Daliracing]

As some already said there is indeed sometimes to much thinner in the bottles. i like ZP for the specific colors but gone to Monopol and Spies Hecker paint for the basic colors like black and white. the cover instantly and give nice finish.
As for the problem i've also had this happening i've had the issue a few times with metalic paint from ZP but after using lighter coats i was able to 'fix' it (after completely repainting ofcourse)