1/12 MFH Porsche 917 LH
Re: 1/12 MFH Porsche 917 LH
I would also solder the doors back together, gives the same strength then the kit parts has been. You also can add some brass wire before putting solder on if you worry about the strength.
Looking forward to next update, good job so far!
Edit: Will you paint the stripes finaly or do you plan with the decals?
Looking forward to next update, good job so far!
Edit: Will you paint the stripes finaly or do you plan with the decals?
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Re: 1/12 MFH Porsche 917 LH
Mmmm, never thought of doing that! Will follow your progress on this.mvc wrote: ↑Wed Aug 03, 2022 5:28 pm Hi all,
Decided to cut the doors in order to get a better fit. No regrets so far, it make the whole fitting job process so much more manageable! Of course this rises a new challenge -- how to put the parts back together in a strong and not too bulky way -- but there is load of other work so there is a enough time to think of a way.
Cheers,
Paul
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Re: 1/12 MFH Porsche 917 LH
Thanks all for your advice!
I'll have to do a few experiments. Initially I considered white milliput, maybe supported by brass wire. In my experience that stuff is rock hard and seriously strong. The main benefit is that it can dry with the door in the correct position, which feels essential for a perfect fit.
But now the majority is all for soldering, I'm reconsidering of course. When soldering, I'm not sure if that would work with the door in position. I do have a temp controlled soldering iron (and the right materials), but in my experience the whole join needs to be made in one go. It would not be possible to solder the front/upper part with the door in place, and then take it out and do the back (because it would all melt...)
Hopefully I can report on how it all went during the weekend
@gp-models: first I'll scan & reprint the decals, then I'll have to try which ones look & feel better. If all fails, it will be paint...
I'll have to do a few experiments. Initially I considered white milliput, maybe supported by brass wire. In my experience that stuff is rock hard and seriously strong. The main benefit is that it can dry with the door in the correct position, which feels essential for a perfect fit.
But now the majority is all for soldering, I'm reconsidering of course. When soldering, I'm not sure if that would work with the door in position. I do have a temp controlled soldering iron (and the right materials), but in my experience the whole join needs to be made in one go. It would not be possible to solder the front/upper part with the door in place, and then take it out and do the back (because it would all melt...)
Hopefully I can report on how it all went during the weekend
@gp-models: first I'll scan & reprint the decals, then I'll have to try which ones look & feel better. If all fails, it will be paint...
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Re: 1/12 MFH Porsche 917 LH
Let's not overthink the matter Done already!
Thanks again for watching,
Marcus
Thanks again for watching,
Marcus
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Re: 1/12 MFH Porsche 917 LH
Great job. A tip my friend gave me was if you’re soldering pieces in different places, place wet tissue paper on the previousLy soldered areas so the temperature doesn’t increase and melt the solder in areas you don’t want it to melt.
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Re: 1/12 MFH Porsche 917 LH
Great tip indeed, Jorge! Used it rightaway, more soldering practice today.
Cheers, Marcus
Cheers, Marcus
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Re: 1/12 MFH Porsche 917 LH
GREAT. I also back then managed to make both doors fit almost perfect (when dryfitting). But it later failed for me. Because while putting on all the complex decals on the doors for the Hippie I "managed" to "re-bend" the doors during that complex operation. One reason is the big decals are not that easy to put on the doors without using some kind of "force".
Br
Allan
Allan
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Re: 1/12 MFH Porsche 917 LH
Hey Marcus,
awesome job! Even if it looks daunting or like "this can only go wrong" at the beginning. I like what you did and the result very much. It might just end up being used on my own 917s. As for the clamp at the back. Unless I'm mistaken, there is some structure on the inside of the rear part of the fender. My plan was to use a pair of tiny neodym magnets there. I have a bunch of these little buggers and they are surprisingly powerful. I've used 2x pairs of 10mm ones to hold a solid wooden door (50x50x1.8 cm) in place. And I've got some 5 mm ones that may also be a bit oversized, so maybe 3 mm ones will do without exerting too much force on the parts. Other than that maybe you can use ready made clips from a tack gun (or stapler) as they come in various sizes (I know of 6, 8, 10 mm variations)...
As for decals - I talked about this before and had a chat with Guido as well. Copy the decals, use the copies to make stencils. Paint the entire car in white, apply stencils and paint bright colours first, and darker colours afterwards. Also my plan was to mount the body in such a way that all parts would be held in place by either tape and (or) some kind of spongy foam to ensure there wouldn't be any warpage when man handling the parts. Remove the foam once all paint and decals are applied and then mate bodywork with chassis.
awesome job! Even if it looks daunting or like "this can only go wrong" at the beginning. I like what you did and the result very much. It might just end up being used on my own 917s. As for the clamp at the back. Unless I'm mistaken, there is some structure on the inside of the rear part of the fender. My plan was to use a pair of tiny neodym magnets there. I have a bunch of these little buggers and they are surprisingly powerful. I've used 2x pairs of 10mm ones to hold a solid wooden door (50x50x1.8 cm) in place. And I've got some 5 mm ones that may also be a bit oversized, so maybe 3 mm ones will do without exerting too much force on the parts. Other than that maybe you can use ready made clips from a tack gun (or stapler) as they come in various sizes (I know of 6, 8, 10 mm variations)...
As for decals - I talked about this before and had a chat with Guido as well. Copy the decals, use the copies to make stencils. Paint the entire car in white, apply stencils and paint bright colours first, and darker colours afterwards. Also my plan was to mount the body in such a way that all parts would be held in place by either tape and (or) some kind of spongy foam to ensure there wouldn't be any warpage when man handling the parts. Remove the foam once all paint and decals are applied and then mate bodywork with chassis.
Cheers,
Roman
Roman
Re: 1/12 MFH Porsche 917 LH
Great job Marcus, looks pretty good!
Those neodym magnets work pretty good, seen it on some builds on youtube and i bought them also to fix bombs to aircraft models as i don`t want to glue them in place.
About the paintjob, there might appear a problem when trying decals and then maybe switching to paint it.
When going with decals you have to paint the model in it`s basic colour, then decals on. But if you decide for a paint job, the start whould be a complete white basecolour like Roman is hinting to, otherwise you have to add a lot more paint to get coverage which leaves hugh steps in between the colours and a lot of clearcoat is needed to cover them up. That might end in a real thick paint coat and again fitting issues. It is easier for coverage of colours when starting with the brightest colour.
A bright colour on top of a dark basecolour can also effect the colour tone itself, means white looks no more solid for example.
Switching from decals to paint means to remove the basecolour again to start with white, that can be a lot fo extra work.
Looking forward to your next steps, keep it going!
Those neodym magnets work pretty good, seen it on some builds on youtube and i bought them also to fix bombs to aircraft models as i don`t want to glue them in place.
About the paintjob, there might appear a problem when trying decals and then maybe switching to paint it.
When going with decals you have to paint the model in it`s basic colour, then decals on. But if you decide for a paint job, the start whould be a complete white basecolour like Roman is hinting to, otherwise you have to add a lot more paint to get coverage which leaves hugh steps in between the colours and a lot of clearcoat is needed to cover them up. That might end in a real thick paint coat and again fitting issues. It is easier for coverage of colours when starting with the brightest colour.
A bright colour on top of a dark basecolour can also effect the colour tone itself, means white looks no more solid for example.
Switching from decals to paint means to remove the basecolour again to start with white, that can be a lot fo extra work.
Looking forward to your next steps, keep it going!
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Re: 1/12 MFH Porsche 917 LH
Thanks guys!
After reading all your experiences, I start to gravitate towards masking and painting indeed...
@Allan: I will be very careful to not apply any force on them, though I must say they feel quite rigid so far!
@Roman: these magnets are a great idea! Hardest part is to predict how much force will be necessary/acceptable... There should not be outrageous force needed to open the cowling. And I see what you mean, your idea is to construct a "hollow shell" for the decaling process (or the masking/painting process), very interesting.. I'll definitely think that through in the coming days!
@Guido: if I would start with decals, I'd just do one part (sidepod) to get a feel. If it feels bad (probably will) I can sand it down again pretty easily because the part does not have any detailed features that are affected by sanding..
So far the masking strategy in my head was: paint white -> mask white lines only -> insert second layer of masking inside white lines -> spray blue -> remove second layer of masking -> mask all blue -> spray green -> remove all masking. Blue first of green first doesn't really matter I think, because they never touch each other. Big job, that's certain...
Anyway, for now I'll just keep pushing forward "decision time", by preparing all details like windows, headlights, windscreen wipers etc. I'll keep you updated
Marcus
After reading all your experiences, I start to gravitate towards masking and painting indeed...
@Allan: I will be very careful to not apply any force on them, though I must say they feel quite rigid so far!
@Roman: these magnets are a great idea! Hardest part is to predict how much force will be necessary/acceptable... There should not be outrageous force needed to open the cowling. And I see what you mean, your idea is to construct a "hollow shell" for the decaling process (or the masking/painting process), very interesting.. I'll definitely think that through in the coming days!
@Guido: if I would start with decals, I'd just do one part (sidepod) to get a feel. If it feels bad (probably will) I can sand it down again pretty easily because the part does not have any detailed features that are affected by sanding..
So far the masking strategy in my head was: paint white -> mask white lines only -> insert second layer of masking inside white lines -> spray blue -> remove second layer of masking -> mask all blue -> spray green -> remove all masking. Blue first of green first doesn't really matter I think, because they never touch each other. Big job, that's certain...
Anyway, for now I'll just keep pushing forward "decision time", by preparing all details like windows, headlights, windscreen wipers etc. I'll keep you updated
Marcus
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