The F1M Forums

It looks like the commonly used light grey anti corrosion coating on brake rotors these days.

ChinaMalc: Thanks for the pictures, they help a lot. When I was younger I used to work in the Labatt's bottling plant here. Fun Jobs to have when you're 18.

I've finished the rear discs for the kit. Had to cut off the mounting pins on the back of the rear rims and then drill them to accept the TVF1 mounting pins. They alternated pointy and flat pins on the rears so the wheels wouldn't spin on the shafts. Would be nice to have that much torque on my daily driver.

No problem, you are welcome!
https://f1modlz.com/
This guy was selling about 660 hi res pictures (1.6GB) of the FW14b as it is today through evilbay, he had access to the car and sells the whole lot for about 10GBP.
The bay of e listing is no longer active, but maybe if you contact him?
I think they are well worth it.
I have lots of period photos if you have a specific area you need to see.

M.

Happy New Year! Even though it's a New Year, the government is telling me to stay home. Don't know why my cable provider thinks it's a good idea to run "The Shining" 12 times in a row. Really..... cabin fever is fun!!!

I've got some more work done, a couple steps closer to completion. I keep looking for my motivation, but I think it ran off with a dust bunny.

Finished the air box and fuel rails. Used the TVF1 machined trumpets and photoetch butterfly valves with associated top straps. I have a medical condition called "Fat Fingers" which explains why the top straps are not perpendicular in each case. With the CA glue, if you don't get it right the first time, it's not happening.

Spent some time praying to the gods of plastic and photo-etch, and this is what I ended up with. It's been fun and a little frustrating digging really small parts off the floor and out of the carpet because they've popped out of the tweezers. Or they're stuck to the toothpick as you try to set them into the glue. But that's why it's a hobby and not a sport. On the plus side, I'm through the first 10 pages of the manual.

Next step is the Top Studio Cockpit upgrade set. Unfortunately the first thing I have to do is cut the nose off the cowling. I figure it's better to do it now, because I have to do it for the dampers upgrade kit. It should be easier to do it now before I have all the cockpit stuff mounted. If anybody's used these kits, let me know what order you did them in and how they worked. Any info will help.

Thanks, and stay safe.

Gorgeous, this model is on my wish list but I have little experience with F1 90s, I follow you to learn.

Spent some quality time with an Exacto knife and cut off the nose of the monocoque. Then some time with a roll of masking tape to cover all the bits that are supposed to be black, sanded the original coat of primer, then re-primed. This is the first coat of the blue. I used the Zero Paints FW14B set (ZP-1122). It comes with colour matched Blue Yellow and White. The pictures show after the first coat. I added a second, sanded to clear up some imperfections, then did a third. Went to do another coat and my airbrush didn't work. Plenty of air to the end of the hose, took the valve out, plunger moved but no air. Won't get the new valve til Tuesday. None of the local shops carry that part. Grrrr. Thinking about ordering a new plunger so I'll have a spare. It only took 20 years for this one to die, so I should be prepared right?

This is the Monocoque and Nose after I finished with the blue stuff and removed the 14 yards of masking tape. Now I have to tape up all the blue stuff so I can "Paint It Black"