Ferrari 500 F2 Ascari

[Schummie]

And further with the engine. I used the electric rotating toothbrush on the parts worked with acid. The dark parts are still a bit on the light side wehen you compare it with the pictures of the real engine.
I later added an extra acid treatment to make it more accurate.








Small FE parts have to find a place on this engine. These are very small parts.





Here the three elements on the engine.





And another twe parts on the camshaft covers.





On the other side also two detailed FE parts. I also left these unpainted. I just polished them.





And in position.


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Polishing the ignition unit.





Modified it a bit to acommedate 4 spark plug cables. Four from each coil. Testing the size of the hole for these cables. Each one is 0,35 mm.





Also the pump drilled with holes for the cooling and oil lines.





On with the carburators. Opening up the ait intakes.





And again some test fitting.





The carburators must be fitted with some tiny brackets. A rod goes through these holes for the accelerator.





Bending is only possible with a bending tool.





The bracket in place.





Before fitting all the other parts, I first bring the parts to the right colour.








A little wash on both carburators to bring up the details of the casting.





And the carburators glued the engine. Not a single drop of paint was used on this engine. As said, I like to use as much ass possible the real metal charactistics en colours.





Next time I do the plumping on the engine. A lot of bending involved. Luckily Tameo provided the kit with some templates to make this a little easier.

[Schummie]

On with the plumbing on the engine.

For the complex bending work the kit provides lead wire. Also a template so one can know if you're a bit in the right direction.



The result of one of the oil tubes.



For the connection with the engine a flange must be placed.
Here to be seen on the point of a tooth pick. This way I can file off the part were this FE part was connected in the sprue.



The flange you have to slide over the oil pipe. After that it is to be connected with the engine and the pump.
Here the result for the first pipe.





The second oil pipe has to be bend in three directions.



And in its place.





A first attempt to add an update which is not provided in the kit.
First the polished ignition unit added with the two coils.



David Negretti, one of the housebuilders of Tameo also added spark plug cables.



Here some pictures of some stages on my firtst attempt.









Then the cooling fluid pipe had to it between all those cables.





And the end result of teh firtst attempt.



However. On the real car, these cables ran through some pipes to protect them from the heat.
Here to be seen on a very large scale 1:18 model. But maybe it is to much to be asked in the 1/43 scale model.



And another test fit of the engine and the gearbox in the chassis.



So, I tried attempt two for a more accurate cable layout.

I used 1 mm aluminium tube. I opened up the inner diameter a bit to accomodate 4 cables per tube.



Then I drilled 0,3 mm holes in the tube. A tricky job on the round tube.



The four cables connected with the tube.



On with the fiddly work.



Glueing the pipe in position.



Another step.



The aft spark plug cables came in on the back side of the tube.



So not all four cables are fed through the pipe as this would prove impossible.
But on different spots, four cables goe in, and on the end four cables come out.
Because the used cables are a bit too glossy, I painted them a bit.



The end result of attempt two. I think this was ultimately a better solution.





And another less exiting intermezzo. Wheel number three.
Tried a different method for easier assembly. At least, that was the idea!

First glue two spoke rows together. They are counter rotating.



The second pair of spokes added to the hub.



Used a toothpick to center the parts.



This pair placed on the thinner part of the hub. Not pressed in place yet by both rim parts.



Pressed and glued together after a night in the mini vice.



And voila. At last, the third wheel. Three down, one to go!!



A little polishing and opening up the exhausts.



And some work on the radiator A nice piece of casting.









The parts for the tankt with the oil tank.



All FE parts have the be bend around the edges. If you do this right they have a nearly perfect fit. The trick is not wanting to glue the strip in one turn.



Some building fases.







And connecting the oil tank. It is right that the oil tank and the petrol tank don't fluently go together.





This tank I havet o paint, because of the FE parts which all have te become aluminium. I'll do that later.

Untill next update. Hope you like the pics of all the tiny steps of this build.

[SanMarino]

.....So not all four cables are fed through the pipe as this would prove impossible.
But on different spots, four cables goe in, and on the end four cables come out.
Because the used cables are a bit too glossy, I painted them a bit......

Bravo. Nicely done. Very convincing. I would have given up.

Cheers,
Mike

[Schummie]

Time for the next update:

Small parts of the suspension. The have to become black. I think they are rubber blocks on the real car.



There 6 in total. Alle to be smoothened and drilled with 0,5 mm holes.



One set of round blocks must have FE parts on the front side. These FE parts have 2 different sides.



To get them rectangular on the blocks, I used my mini vice to glue the FE part with precision.



And polished and de-greased, ready for painting later.



Started working on the first body part. In close up it's clear to see that it needs som TLC.



After some time of filing and sanding.



And the result after another hour.



On with the drum breaks. For all four wheels. The drums and the inner plates.



The break drums I put on a tooth pick in the Dremel This way it's easy to polish.



Here you see the worked parts.
From left to right. The seperate parts from the outside. In the middle the inside of the parts.
On the right side the assembled parts. From both sides.



The kit doesn't provide break lines. I will do a mod on this. On the edge of the inner plate I drilled a 0,6 mm hole.
In that hole a little brass tube will be glued. 0,6 mm diameter and 3 mm long. These will become the swivels in which the break lines will be glued.
At least, that's the plan.



And on with some small bending of FE parts. These will become the supports of the seat. I do this now as it will be spayed later in the same chassis colour.



These extreme small parts can only be bend right with some bending tool.

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One support ready. Its critical to get two supports in exactly the same shape.



And fitted in the chassis.



After both supports are in the right place, a little check if the gearbox still fits in between.



And a dry fit with the seat.



And finally, all four wheels ready.



And back to the detailed front suspension.
A lot of bending, drilling, sanding and polishing.



The unworked castings.



After the polishing and drilling. You see som bending of the white metal piece. I corrected that later. I learned the hard way to bend in in the right position only just before final assembly. This whte metal breaks after just a few bending attempts.



The FE parts cut out.



And some bending again.



Another FE part added.



The raw uprights.



And after some work.



And the final assembly. I kept this part movable. This will help ajusting and get all four wheels on the ground. Later, much later.





Moving attention to a part of the rear suspension. Again a lot of detail in this kit.



Polished and put together.



And the FE front supports of the seat. Also to be sprayed in the chassis colour, together with the outside of the seat.



After the bending.



They fit perfectly in the casted cutouts of the seat.



And the end result. I think I keep the seat removable to make it possible to show the gearbox.






That's it for today. If you think there are too much pictures for all those little steps. Please let me know. It takes some time and thought to make these foto's during the build.
But I think it might help if one of you might build this kit some time. So my mistakes can be avoided.

[Joaquin]

NOT too much pictures!!!. Please continue this way

[Jeff]

Such tiny parts - amazing work & photos

[Inuyasha]

Good work so far, but too much pics of single parts.

[m.ruds]

Really enjoying the detailed pictorial story of this build, so no, not too many pictures. Keep 'em coming!

[Schummie]

Here we go again. Did some research for the right colour of the chassis. I found different varyities on different models. In the end I found also some pictures of the 1:1 car.
It's in the Ferrari museum. Also nice to see some details, useful on the build.

















One can see also that the inside of the body parts remain unpainted. I will do the same for my model.
Here one of the body parts as an example. Very delicate, and easy to bend in wrong ways.








Now on with some tricky bending works. Tameo provided some special templates for this.


The theory:











And for real, step by step:





The templates are realy smart designed. They have a front and a back side. By the different width of the slots you can't go wrong.





And then you press all together.





The result. It was very hard to get the formed metal out of the template without damage.





The left side is different, so another template.





You have to bend a 0,5 mm edge.





Then you have to glue the top side on. Very small to handle as you can see. (I have normal size fingers).





I glued these parts in the fire wall when still in the sprue to prevent flexing and bending.
CA glue residu will beremved with acetone later.





The FE throttle pedal. Again some complex and tiny bending to do.





You have to use a 1mm x 0,4 mm rod to assemble the pedal.





The little hole is for the rod which will connect the pedal with the carburators on the engine.





Assembled in the fire wall. Some polishing to do later. Later a break pedal will be added, connected with break cilinders.
But firts some rest for my old eyes.





The break pedal provided with a 1,2 mm rod, placed from the under side in the break cilinder.





And assembled. Here to be seen from the engine side.





After the cilinder in place. The pedal itself must be added.





Worked with acid to get the right colour and wear.





The driver side with the break and throtte pedal.





Further with working on the body parts. More work than initially thought. Flash and burrs?








One of the side panels. Drilled and the FE part assembled.





Then disaster struck. Bend in the procces of sanding.





Twisted in different direction. Because the metal is so thin, I get onlu a few attempts to correct this before the parts shears off.
Because I don't want to manipulate this part too much, I decided to first place the mirrors, as the will be sprayed also in the body colour.





Filing the inner pins flush with the inside of the body panel. Again danger for too much bending.





I decided to glue one of the chassis arches on a credit card to create a sort of template without bending the arch.





The amount of bending needed.





The end result. I managed to save the body part.





The arch rescued. The CC plastic desolved in the acetone, as did the AC glue.





To prevent unauthorized bending, the arch glued on the chassis.





Starting to mask the body parts. A time consuming task. Done to keep the inside of the body parts aluminium colour. I attach sticks so I can handle the parts during aurbrushing.








Time for some bending of lots of FE parts.











And some really tiny parts on sticks for spraying later.








I already glue the fins on the side panel. To get a smooth finish later.








Another example of the detail Tameo is able to put in these WCT 1/43 kits.





Even the knobs you have to add yourself.


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And drill a hole in it!!





On the tooth stick.


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And the prepared parts with the FE shift pattern.





Another template to bend the gear shift stick in the right form. I used mu nickel chromed after market rods as the original supplied steel ones are impossoble to bend with these short lengths.




And the module to connect the shift module with the gear box.





On with the dash. FE part with holes before bending an edge.





The dials find a home in the holes.








All 5 placed.





To place the tiny parts, I use a wax stick. Tweezers tend to shoot these parts away, never to be seen again,
The part sticks a bit on the pencil but loosenens easy when you glue the part.





The instrument decals on the dials.





The dash has to be placed on the frame. A little FE switch also attached.





On the backside you have to add little brackets which origianally kept the instruments in place.





This way.




Added some wires. A little mod. Still long to have enough length to get them in the right place later.





And on with the gear shift block. Polished and with a cover in the chassis colour.





Assembled with al the pre worked parts.





On its final place.








Enough for today. Until next update.

[Mr.Grumpy]

amazing work.