WIP De Tomaso Ford 505 38 Piers Courage
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- Backmarker
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Re: WIP De Tomaso Ford 505 38 Piers Courage
Very nice! thanks for sharing. I'm curious about the acid you are using on the engine block, it looks good, can you give some detail on what you're using and the process?
thanks
thanks
Re: WIP De Tomaso Ford 505 38 Piers Courage
Nice idea doing it with acid, is it the same acid to burnish brass?
Keep it coming!
Keep it coming!
Take a stand!
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- World Champion
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Re: WIP De Tomaso Ford 505 38 Piers Courage
Good project and good presentation.
Mike
Mike
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Topic author - F2
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Re: WIP De Tomaso Ford 505 38 Piers Courage
Thank you guys. It's nice to see there is an interest in my builds.
The acid method is something I tried when I asked myself where in reality gun metal originated. It apeared that guns are not painted, but treated with acid to protect the metal.
Then I thought, well maybe that the same acid can be used on white metal. I was told that his probably would not work because the metal must be corrosive.
But I'm certainly not the first to use this, because I found the specific acid used in a local Dutch modelling website.
Here a picture of the bottle. It origninates from the US.
I submerge the specific part for 45 seconds completely in de acid. One must be very careful for yhis is very toxic stuff.
It dries fast when the part comes out of the fluid. In the earlier pictures you can see that it first looks dramatic.
But after using an old electric rotating toothbrush you get a very nice result. When it's not dark enough, you can add extra sessions in the acid.
Also there is no need for a wash. You get that effect also.
By polishing it more or less one can reach the amount of shine you want.
It also works on FE parts. Further in the build I'll show the result on radiator parts.
Hope I'm clear enough. I'm Dutch and Englisch isn't my native language. So maybe I sometimes use no the correct words.
The acid method is something I tried when I asked myself where in reality gun metal originated. It apeared that guns are not painted, but treated with acid to protect the metal.
Then I thought, well maybe that the same acid can be used on white metal. I was told that his probably would not work because the metal must be corrosive.
But I'm certainly not the first to use this, because I found the specific acid used in a local Dutch modelling website.
Here a picture of the bottle. It origninates from the US.
I submerge the specific part for 45 seconds completely in de acid. One must be very careful for yhis is very toxic stuff.
It dries fast when the part comes out of the fluid. In the earlier pictures you can see that it first looks dramatic.
But after using an old electric rotating toothbrush you get a very nice result. When it's not dark enough, you can add extra sessions in the acid.
Also there is no need for a wash. You get that effect also.
By polishing it more or less one can reach the amount of shine you want.
It also works on FE parts. Further in the build I'll show the result on radiator parts.
Hope I'm clear enough. I'm Dutch and Englisch isn't my native language. So maybe I sometimes use no the correct words.
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Re: WIP De Tomaso Ford 505 38 Piers Courage
Thank you for the explanation, very helpful. I look forward to trying it out.
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Topic author - F2
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Re: WIP De Tomaso Ford 505 38 Piers Courage
The next update with pictures for the interested.
The radiator for the oil cooler. First a few to bend FE parts.
The theory:
The practice:
The manual indicates that everything should be silver. However, foto's of the real car show that at least de cooling element is dark.
So also using the acid method. By doing so, you don't fill op the details with paint.
The right part is treated, en the left part not to show the difference.
All parts bended and ready for assembling.
And glued together. After a lot of experimenting with metal kits like soldering and all sorts of glue I now use medium CA on all my kits. I put a drop on a piece of plastic, and stick the point of a needle in the drop.
Then I hold the needle against the pieces I want to connect.
Offcourse you experienced 1/43 guys know, but one can easily forget how small the detailed parts in fact are.
The oil tank polished. It will later be connected with the radiator.
Tp prevent the drive shaft from breaking, there were rubber dampeners in the The Tomaso.
On these macro foto's it looks a bit rough. This is done by hand with a 10 times zero brush. In reality at 1/43 is is quite acceptable.
Another little mod. The kit does not provide for wires or cables.
I managed to drill 9 holes in the distributer and ignition unit.
The distributer cap coloured with the small brush. And the feeder wire from the ignition unit to he distributer cap made.
On with the rims. FE parts to bend.
Build together with te turned parts of the rims. Later the will be airbushed in gloss black. In the kit, the Monaco version, they are gold. At Zandvoort they were black.
Thats all for today. Next time we start with the cockpit.
The radiator for the oil cooler. First a few to bend FE parts.
The theory:
The practice:
The manual indicates that everything should be silver. However, foto's of the real car show that at least de cooling element is dark.
So also using the acid method. By doing so, you don't fill op the details with paint.
The right part is treated, en the left part not to show the difference.
All parts bended and ready for assembling.
And glued together. After a lot of experimenting with metal kits like soldering and all sorts of glue I now use medium CA on all my kits. I put a drop on a piece of plastic, and stick the point of a needle in the drop.
Then I hold the needle against the pieces I want to connect.
Offcourse you experienced 1/43 guys know, but one can easily forget how small the detailed parts in fact are.
The oil tank polished. It will later be connected with the radiator.
Tp prevent the drive shaft from breaking, there were rubber dampeners in the The Tomaso.
On these macro foto's it looks a bit rough. This is done by hand with a 10 times zero brush. In reality at 1/43 is is quite acceptable.
Another little mod. The kit does not provide for wires or cables.
I managed to drill 9 holes in the distributer and ignition unit.
The distributer cap coloured with the small brush. And the feeder wire from the ignition unit to he distributer cap made.
On with the rims. FE parts to bend.
Build together with te turned parts of the rims. Later the will be airbushed in gloss black. In the kit, the Monaco version, they are gold. At Zandvoort they were black.
Thats all for today. Next time we start with the cockpit.
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Re: WIP De Tomaso Ford 505 38 Piers Courage
Great subject of a legendary driver. Great progress so far.
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Re: WIP De Tomaso Ford 505 38 Piers Courage
Using liquid gun blue creates an interesting effect that you can't really get with paints and washes. I've noticed that some of the military modelling weathering and effects companies have started selling it as "metal burnishing fluid" or something similar, for aftermarket metal tank tracks. AK Interactive and AMMO by Mig both offer it. They are probably more dilute solutions than the Birchwood Casey or other gun bluing fluids. It is usually a mixture of selenous acid, copper(II) nitrate, copper(II) phosphate, and nitric acid, so use caution and dispose of it properly.
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Topic author - F2
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Re: WIP De Tomaso Ford 505 38 Piers Courage
As promised, further with the cockpit.
The theory:
And now for real:
Lots of parts to bend and glue together.
I don't paint these parts anymore. I polish them until I get the shine as close as possible to the required metal.
After some bending.
Dryfitting revealed a rare flaw in the kit. There should be a slot in the rear to let the cockpit slide over the bracket in de chassis wich supports the seatlater.
When i made a slot with my dremel, disaster struck!! Later more on this.
Fitting the parts. Perfect interlocking system.
Two small parts connected to the dashboard.
Assembling the gear unit.
And put it in the cockpit. The gear lever is still missing.
All put together. On this macro picture I then saw the centre instrument holder was a bit out of line. That was ajusted later.
Another benefit of CA glue with these unpainted FE parts is that when submerged in aceton for a while, all glue desolves. And all the parts come loose and clean and you can give it a second try.
When I tried to make a slot with the dremel, metal fatique caused the left part to break.
But dry fitting the seat showed that this flaw will be hidden for eternity.
The tank covers in place. Nice detail to get the real hight in the model.
The intake trumpets. In this build still without fuel lines. But thanks to this forum in a new build I give that a try too.
Thanks too Formulamike. Who pushes the boundaries of 43 scale modelling. And in the process makes us a little better.
The way I see it, one of the benifits of a forum like this. Learning from eachother.
Rear wing provided with the wing endplates.
The FE parts of the seat belts cut out and pre-worked.
The semi-gloss parts painted.
And also the wheels airbrushed in gloss black. Came out very nice.
Put in the gear lever, with the wood coloured knob.
The theory on the three instruments and the seering wheel in the cockpit.
And the implementation.
That's it for today to prevent being banned here for adding too much pictures.
Next time the engine and the rear wheel suspension.
The theory:
And now for real:
Lots of parts to bend and glue together.
I don't paint these parts anymore. I polish them until I get the shine as close as possible to the required metal.
After some bending.
Dryfitting revealed a rare flaw in the kit. There should be a slot in the rear to let the cockpit slide over the bracket in de chassis wich supports the seatlater.
When i made a slot with my dremel, disaster struck!! Later more on this.
Fitting the parts. Perfect interlocking system.
Two small parts connected to the dashboard.
Assembling the gear unit.
And put it in the cockpit. The gear lever is still missing.
All put together. On this macro picture I then saw the centre instrument holder was a bit out of line. That was ajusted later.
Another benefit of CA glue with these unpainted FE parts is that when submerged in aceton for a while, all glue desolves. And all the parts come loose and clean and you can give it a second try.
When I tried to make a slot with the dremel, metal fatique caused the left part to break.
But dry fitting the seat showed that this flaw will be hidden for eternity.
The tank covers in place. Nice detail to get the real hight in the model.
The intake trumpets. In this build still without fuel lines. But thanks to this forum in a new build I give that a try too.
Thanks too Formulamike. Who pushes the boundaries of 43 scale modelling. And in the process makes us a little better.
The way I see it, one of the benifits of a forum like this. Learning from eachother.
Rear wing provided with the wing endplates.
The FE parts of the seat belts cut out and pre-worked.
The semi-gloss parts painted.
And also the wheels airbrushed in gloss black. Came out very nice.
Put in the gear lever, with the wood coloured knob.
The theory on the three instruments and the seering wheel in the cockpit.
And the implementation.
That's it for today to prevent being banned here for adding too much pictures.
Next time the engine and the rear wheel suspension.
-
Topic author - F2
- Posts: 58
- Joined: Sun May 24, 2020 9:26 am
- Your Name: Eric
- Favorite F1 Team or Driver: RBR and Max Verstappen
- Location: Almelo, Netherlands
- Status: Offline
Re: WIP De Tomaso Ford 505 38 Piers Courage
And on with the engine, gearbox and rear suspension.
The battery also completed.
The valve covers completed with the Ford decals. Placing the supports for the later to be places rear wing. In front the rubber damper preventing the drive shafts from snapping.
And both sides ready.
The lower part of the rear suspension.
The engine temporarily fitted to the chassis to keep all aligned.
Another mod: Driveshafts made from aftermarket wire, which has a much better silver/chrome colour without painting.
The torsion bar ready for assembly.
On with the uprights. Driveshafts in place. The joints wille be treated with a wash to bring the detals up.
The torsion bar in place. Linked with the low end of the uprights.
Ans some more links.
The alternator and te battery in place.
The exhausts in place, the supports for the exhausts and the oil reservoir.
A bit of damage to the battery. Will be repaired.
The springs for the rear wheels ready for assembly. The springs painted black.
Made at the right length.
And places on its final position.
The air intakes on the rails and into place.
The distributer got the spark plug cables.
The ignition unit in place. Some details no longer visible.
And the break disks with the hubs added.
In next update the painting of the body.
The battery also completed.
The valve covers completed with the Ford decals. Placing the supports for the later to be places rear wing. In front the rubber damper preventing the drive shafts from snapping.
And both sides ready.
The lower part of the rear suspension.
The engine temporarily fitted to the chassis to keep all aligned.
Another mod: Driveshafts made from aftermarket wire, which has a much better silver/chrome colour without painting.
The torsion bar ready for assembly.
On with the uprights. Driveshafts in place. The joints wille be treated with a wash to bring the detals up.
The torsion bar in place. Linked with the low end of the uprights.
Ans some more links.
The alternator and te battery in place.
The exhausts in place, the supports for the exhausts and the oil reservoir.
A bit of damage to the battery. Will be repaired.
The springs for the rear wheels ready for assembly. The springs painted black.
Made at the right length.
And places on its final position.
The air intakes on the rails and into place.
The distributer got the spark plug cables.
The ignition unit in place. Some details no longer visible.
And the break disks with the hubs added.
In next update the painting of the body.
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